As you know, it has been a huge winter for swell in Europe with a seemingly endless barrage of massive lighting up the big wave spots. It hasn’t been under ten foot Hawaiian since Christmas, with consistent spikes of 30 feet swells coming every week. Mundaka and Ireland have had the best seasons in living memory and it’s nowhere done yet. Today in France it was 20 feet at 20 seconds, and another bigger swell is coming for the weekend.
In all of this swell, a few single waves have stood out. The first was last Saturday ridden at Ireland’s Mullaghmore by the UK’s Tom Butler. The sequence above, shot by Finn Mullen, shows why 20 foot Mully has been consistently compared to Chopes.
“I saw spray coming off the back off the wave where I had never seen spray before, about 400 meters further out to sea.” Butler told Tracks. “So I knew something big was coming. Then I saw this massive wall just coming towards me. I said to Dylan, my mate towing, ‘Just drop me as deep as I can and we’ll go from there.'”
Tom dropped into the wave and managed to negotiate the heaving barrel on a wave that had a wave face more than 40 feet high. “It was a gigantic barrel and I was standing in the jaws of it,” recalls Tom. “I ended riding over the lumps of the three different ledgy parts of the reef and came out. The boys were screaming. I sensed then that it might have been a pretty special wave.”
So that's what happened on my last trip over here!! After 10 day's at home seeing family and picking up some important new board's I'm back here in Ireland ready to rock and see out the winter big styley! Stay tuned on my social networks and website for more information.
Thanks for reading,